Chronoswiss瑞宝2006年巴塞尔新款

转载自timezone

The complicated side of Chronoswiss: The Perpetual Calendar

It can't be said differently: Chronoswiss is getting complicated. Pretty complicated in fact.

After the exclusive wristwatches with quarter repeaters and flying Tourbillon, the Munich-based watch manufacturer now comes up with a perpetual calendar watch. Already in 1985, when Gerd-Rüdiger Lang was significantly involved in the renaissance of mechanical timekeeping, he also offered wrist-watches whose calendar-based accuracy would last until February 28, 2100. Therefore, they sufficed according to what Gajus Julius Caesar's created in 45 B.C. in collaboration with the astronomer Sosigenes, which most likely was his politically most significant accomplishment in history: the so-called Julian Calendar. Basically, the same calendar with its progression of three normal years of each 365 days and a leap-year with 366 days has lasted until the present. Only a small blemish caused Pope Gregory the XIIIth to act. Not a big deal but still. The Julian year was all of eleven minutes and 14 seconds or 0.0078 days too long. They mixed up the Christian course of the year and urgently had to be eliminated. How? Simple! In the future, the 29th of February had to be skipped in all secular years that couldn't be divided by 400. In other words: in 1700, 1800 and 1900, that day did not exist. In 2100, 2200 etc. it will be eliminated as well.

Quem juckat? Latin students would say. So, who cares?

That's what Gerd-Rüdiger Lang thought about with his current "complication". It is linked to the inheritance of great master watchmakers such as Thomas Mudge, who most likely presented the first pocket-watch in 1764, which was able to correctly handle different lengths of months in normal- as well as leap-years. It therefore possessed what is now commonly called the eternal calendar. The first wrist-watch of this complex genre followed exactly 163 later, supplied with a hand-wound movement. The first Chronoswiss-models with eternal calendar already had automatic movements. They were then manufactured by ETA. But the brand-new model contains the exclusive Chronoswiss manufacture-Caliber C. 127, which most reliably and precisely drives the complicated app. 50-part calendar-module.

Lang's philosophy is based on the systematic examination of the horological tradition. Part of this examination is the subtle knowledge pertaining to the lengths and the proportions of the hands, the design of the dial and the execution of the case. When it comes to the horological application, functionality, dependability, precision and craftsmanship detail are the top priorities.

This statement can be confirmed in no time at all with one glance through the sapphire-crystal base at the automatic Chronoswiss caliber C.127. The balance-wheel makes 21,600 vibrations per hour. The ball bearing rotor passes its stored energy very efficiently to the tension spring. Entirely wound-up, its power-reserve lasts for about forty hours. Things are different when it comes to the intricate calendar-gears. It accomplishes its calendar-tasks beneath the dial and is hidden from curious looks. But not because it has something to hide, but only because of technical reasons. After all, three staffs which indicate the day of the week, the date and the month as well as a lunar disk protrude outward.

The specialty of the calendar-module 5800 C consists of a level-disk (see attachment with technical drawing of the module), which turns around its own axis once every four years. Grooves in the circumference indicate the lengths of the different months to the mechanism. Contrary to the ordinary, the lunar disk also turns to the left since Gerd-Rüdiger Lang desired a toppled indication of the livid moon for aesthetic reasons.
Since Chronoswiss has always given credit where credit is due, it should not be concealed here that the complicated, exclusive Chronoswiss calendar-module originates from the mechanic specialist Dubois Dépraz from the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland. The gears have a diameter of 26.2 mm and a height of 5.2 mm and 30 jewels. The massive crown and adjustment pushers do not have to be exchanged during water-resistance tests since the crown's gaskets are directly attached to the tube. This service-friendly system only requires the replacement of the gaskets themselves and it is essential cheaper.

The new "Perpetual Calendar" is visually stunning because of its harmonic ensemble of massive silver dial with varnished top and blue steel hands in the "Poire Stuart" style. It is in perfect harmony with the massive, 36-part case. Characteristic of the complication is the elimination of the knurled bezel, which stylistically unifies the "Perpetual Calendar" with the repeater wristwatch. Now, it's time to strap this eye-catcher to the wrist and to be magnetized by the dial. It's especially exciting at the end of the month when the hands magically jump to the first, no matter if it was the 28th, 29th, 30th or 31st. Otherwise Chronoswiss could have saved itself all the hassle.


Model: Wristwatch (automatic) with perpetual calendar and lunar indication

Reference: CH 1720 Platinum 950, limited to 99 pieces
CH 1721 18 Ct. Gold 2N
CH 1721 R 18Ct. Rosegold 5N
CH 1721 W 18Ct. Whitegold
CH 1723 Steel

Display: Hour and minute, great second, date-indication, day of the week-display, 48- months- indication, indication of the leap-year, lunar indication, and lunar age

Case: massive 36-part case, Ø 40 mm, height 12.9 mm, pusher and turnip-crown and adjustment pusher as part of the case, adjustment pusher screwed, screwed and polished bezel with one-sided non-reflective sapphire crystal, screw-on case back with full-thread and one-sided non-reflective sapphire crystal, screw-on lugs with patented system Autobloc, water-resistant up to 3 atm (30m)

Movement: Chronoswiss Manufacture Caliber C.127,
Ø 26.80 mm (11 3/4´´´), 30 jewels (incl. module), Incabloc shock absorber,
40 hours power reserve, 3 Hz., 21,600 A/h (vibrations), fine adjustment pusher by eccentric, individually numbered

Module: Calendar-Module 5800 C (Dubois-Dépraz), 48-level indication, module
Ø 26.20 mm, left-running lunar phase, reserved for Chronoswiss

Dial: massive 925 Sterling-Silver dial, colour: off-white (Coquille d'oeuf)
blue-varnished Steel hands, shape: Poire Stuart

A Real Stunner: The "Timemaster Chronograph Date"

Chronoswiss is fully aware of the fact that it's not proper to toot one's own horn. But this Chronograph wristwatch truly is a stunner! Stunning in its dimension and stunning in its visual appearance. This stunning presence, resulting from its case diameter of 44 millimeters makes sense, perfect sense in fact. It exquisitely serves the reading precision. It's about nothing else when it comes to functional Chronographs. The new "Timemaster Chronograph Date" exactly takes time up to the quarter-second and adds the split-seconds up to twelve long hours. The best is: No mater if it comes to split-seconds, minutes or hours, all details of the stopping process can be clearly read without a magnifying class when stopping the Chronograph. The expression of the dial is clear and precise. There is no superfluous distraction. The functionality dominates. Exactly what one would expect from a wristwatch such as this one. The same holds true for the execution of the total of seven hands. Since they were uniquely created and produced for the "Timemaster Chronograph Date", their dimensions and proportions are in harmony with the dial-typography. The lengths are exactly coordinated with their dedicated scales; their shape- and color-design corresponds with the particular purpose. Accordingly, the three Chronograph hands are consistently kept in red. This prevents any confusion about what belongs where while stopping. This raises the question, why this isn't standard with all Chronographs. The answer is simple: Because the reflection and the detailed examination of this matter take such a considerable quantum of time that others quite frivolously just don't take.

The "Timemaster Chronograph Date's" water resistance lasts up to 10 atm. The Chronograph pushers have a structured top and the extremely handy turnip crown is purposefully extruding. This way it can be easily reached and operated in all circumstances. For example, while setting the time or to correct the centrally-located date-hand in all months with less than 31 days. Talking about the date: The analog design and the 117 millimeter circumference of the corresponding numeral ring at the edge of the dial do not leave any doubt which day of the month one is currently experiencing. An additional chronometric aid can be seen in the turning bezel with luminous marker. One move is enough to set any chosen moment, regardless if "departure' or the planned "arrival".

Chronoswiss does not make any experiments when it comes to the movement. The automatic caliber ETA 7750, which has proven itself for 33 years, is being used. It exhibits its meticulously finished qualities behind the screwed-on sapphire-crystal base. For Chronoswiss, the design is not just a superficial but also quite a profound matter. Regardless, one thing is for sure when it comes to the new, stunning "Timemaster Chronograph Date": It will never ever lack getting attention.


Model: Large Chronograph with center date

Reference: CH 7533 bk (black dial), CH 7533 lu (luminous dial)

Display: Hours, minutes, seconds, Chrono-center-second, 30-minute-counter, 12-hour-counter, centered analog date

Case: massive 27-part case, stainless steel, Ø 44.00 mm, height 16 mm, brushed and polished bezel with luminous marking, scratch-resistant, non-reflective sapphire crystal, sapphire crystal case back with full-thread, screw-on tube body, special turnip-crown for winding watch when wearing gloves, screw-on lugs with patented system Autobloc, water-resistant up to 100 meters (10 atm)

Movement: Automatic, Chronoswiss Caliber C.751 ( ETA 7750 base), 25 jewels, Glucydur three-sided with and flat spring Nivarox 1, Measurements:
Ø 30 mm, 13 1/4''', height 7.90 mm, 4 Hz., A/h 28,800 vibrations, individually numbered, Incabloc shock absorber, precision regulator by eccentric, approx. 46 power reserve. Pallet, pallet-wheel and screws polished, skeletonized and gold-plated rotor, circular grained plate, bridges Côtes de Genève

Dial: bk = matte black metal dial with luminous Super-LumiNova C3 (no radiation), metal hands with luminous Super-LumiNova C3, "modern" shape

or

lu = metal dial with luminous Super-LumiNova C3 (no radiation) with black numerals, metal hands, black-varnished, "modern" shape

Straps: Water-resistant Walknappa-strap, end width 22mm, also folding claps and metal bracelets

Plain, simple but still very beneficial: The "Grand Régulateur Chronometre"

But of course! The "Grand Régulateur" has been there before at Chronoswiss. That was in 1994 and is a long time ago in our fast-moving time. To refresh every one's memory: Then, Chronoswiss revived the era of the watch on the chain with a limited pocketwatch, which, with the help of a second case and a bayonet connector, could also be worn on one's wrist. Since the hand-wound caliber C.1722 R made by the movement manufacturer Minerva was only available in limited numbers, the previous edition "Grand Régulateur" had to be strictly limited to 300 pieces.

Things are a little different for the "Grand Régulateur Chronometre" 2006: It should also be linked to the hand-wound tradition, which, for Chronoswiss, began with the long sold-out ancestral Régulateur of 1987. And it should enrich the Chronoswiss line as long as possible.

The reason for the comeback of the "Grand Régulateur" is obvious: Times change and with them the taste in watches. This doesn't mean that the "Régulateur Automatique" does no longer meet our creative demands of today. But the desire for size grows. And this also concerns the Régulateur.

Since Gerd-Rüdiger Lang represents the clear concept of selling aesthetic watches and not just hot air, there are limitations to the growth using the automatic caliber C. 122. An increased diameter would fill the corresponding case in addition to the movement with lots of vital gas. Additionally, the aesthetics of the dial would suffer tremendously since the hour- and second-scale would move far into the center.

The case of the "Grand Régulateur Chronometre" in the typical Chronoswiss style measures 44 millimeters. When one turns the paned back to the front, one discovers the 16 1/2 -lined hand-wound movement C.673 with a diameter of about 36.6 millimeters. Aficionados will also notice that the base is from ETA where it is classified as 6498-1. In order to be able to and to be entitled to animate the "Grand Régulateur Chronometre", the established hand-wound movement has to endure quite a bit. It starts with the move of the hour-wheel from the center towards the "12", is continued by supplementing a balance-wheel-mechanism as well as by assembling an elegant swan-neck adjustment and is completed by a painstaking finishing. Before being encased, each movement has to undergo a meticulous testing-process by the official Swiss Chronometer Control COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres).

Compared to all other Régulators with the Chronoswiss signature, the "New One" has an important advantage: The bezel with the highly-visible Super-LumiNova markings can be turned. This way, the "Grand Régulateur Chronometre" can easily take on simple chronographic tasks: To "count-up", simply position the marker across from the minute-hand and count how much time has passed since then.

For cooking spaghetti noodles al-dente, the remarkably easy Régulateur-count-down comes in handy. Here, the marking is set to the corresponding value, for example, the current position of the minute-hand plus the cooking time indicated in the cooking directions. If both are facing each other, it is time to take the pot of the stove. Daily life can be as easy as that. One just has to come and think of it.

Model: Large hand-wound wristwatch with regulator-indication and accuracy certificate by the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres)

Reference: CH 6720 Platinum, limited to 99 pieces
CH 6721 W Whitegold
CH 6721 R Rosegold 5N
CH 6721 Gold 2N
CH 6723 Steel

Display: hour, minute, second

Case: massive 20-part case, Ø 44 mm, height: 13.45 mm, bezel with luminous marking, massive turnip-crown part of the case, brushed and polished, screw-on bezel with one-sided non-reflective sapphire crystal, screw-on case back with full-thread and one-sided non-reflective sapphire-crystal, screw-on lugs with patented system Autobloc, water-resistant up to 3 atm (30 m)

Movement: Chronoswiss Caliber C.673 (Base ETA 6498-1), hand-wound, Ø 36.6 mm, height 4.7mm, (16 1/2´´´), 17 jewels, Incabloc shock absorber, app 40 hours power reserve, swan-neck precision regulator, 3 Hz., 21.600 A/h (vibrations), Glycydur-balance, flat balance spring Nivarox 1,pallet, pallet-wheel and screws polished, circular grained plate, bridges with Geneva-brush polish, individually numbered

Dial: massive 925-Sterling Silver dial, guilloché-finish, "clou de paris" and "damier", blue-varnished steel hands, shape "Poire Losange"

Strap: Louisiana-crocodile strap, also available with folding clasp or metal bracelet. Strap width at the case: 22 mm/ at the buckle: 18 mm

耀眼啊。

:) :) :)

:)

好靓噻

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表冠好大，属于比较特殊的。

classic..................

瑞宝的表我是见一个爱一个呀！

这个好像刚刚得了麻疹一样,还要玩一样涂了一身的红药水～
审美观有问题！

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