Complications
Patek Philippe Press Release
March 2005
Patek Philippe presents two new variations of its famous Annual Calendar.
For the first time, the patented Annual Calendar is available in an exceptionally feminine model with mother-of-pearl dial and diamond-studded case. In contrast, the new men’s version, with a slightly enlarged diameter and subtly reworked dial, is decidedly masculine.
Launched in 1996, the Annual Calendar – an exclusive Patek Philippe patent – was the first wristwatch to automatically display the month, day of the week, and date regardless of the length of the month (30 or 31 days). The watch requires correcting just once a year, at the end of February. The mechanism is nothing short of ingenious. Patek Philippe’s engineers had to invent a totally new design for the movement to essentially eliminate the need for levers and use wheels and pinions instead. Not surprisingly, the Annual Calendar movement with the moon-phase display consists of 330 parts while other Patek Philippe watches with perpetual calendars and moon-phase displays comprise 275. All calendar displays can be quickly and conveniently adjusted via correctors on the side of the case.
The sovereign of useful complications
A milestone achievement of the Geneva workshops, the Annual Calendar presents sophisticated timekeeping in a convenient, easily readable and user-friendly design. The invention reflects Patek Philippe’s desire to expand its collection and customer base by crafting not only ultra-sophisticated, Grande-Complication watches but also a selection of extremely useful complications that simplify life in the 21st century. An enormously successful timepiece, the Annual Calendar was rated “Watch of the Year 1996” soon after its debut. The power-reserve indicator, another useful complication, was added in 1998. Along with its poetic merits, the moon-phase mechanism was lauded for its high precision as it deviates from the true lunar cycle by only one day in 122 years. The tonneau-shaped Gondolo Calendario, introduced in 2004, has an enhanced version of the Annual Calendar mechanism. This year, Patek Philippe presents a novel interpretation of the round Annual Calendar with two distinctive faces.
The Annual Calendar Ref. 5146: a new interpretation of modern elegance
An evolution of the original men’s Annual Calendar, the new Patek Philippe Ref. 5146 responds to the growing demand for slightly larger watches. Its 39 mm case (formerly 37 mm) gives it a stronger presence with a balanced and contemporary face. The larger scale provides more space for the added functions and assures better readability of the dials – the day-of-week display between 9 and 10 o’clock, month display between 2 and 3 o’clock, power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, and date aperture at 6 o’clock crowned by the crescent-shaped moonphase window. A sapphire-crystal case back reveals the Patek Philippe caliber 315 movement which consists of 355 parts and was developed, crafted and assembled to the strict standards of the Geneva Seal. In the current Patek Philippe collection, the new Ref. 5146 replaces the basic Ref. 5035 model first introduced in 1996.
A true masterpiece
Men love technical watches, but they also appreciate elegant lines, fine materials and luxurious details. Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5146 has it all. Available in 18K yellow or white gold, the Annual Calendar is available in two dial designs for four distinct looks. The elegant cream dial has a rich intensity. The lacquering, firing, and polishing processes alone require 12 separate steps. The recessed subsidiary dials with their circular guilloche patterns enhance the sense of depth while the sunburst slate dial creates a subtle play of light. The hours are indicated with three Arabic numerals and applied indexes as well as luminescent, gold feuille (leaf-shaped) hands. The brown, hand-stitched alligator strap is fitted with an innovative 18K yellow or white fold-over clasp that resembles the traditional Patek Philippe pin buckle.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5146 J/G
Movement : Caliber 315 S IRM QA LU
Self-winding mechanical movement, Annual Calendar, moon phase, power-reserve indicator and sweep seconds
Diameter: 30 mm
Height: 5.22 mm
Number of parts: 355
Number of jewels: 36
Power reserve: Min. 38 hours, max. 48 hours
Rotor: 21K gold central rotor, unidirectional winding
Balance: Gyromax
Frequency: 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour
Balance spring: Flat
Functions: Two-position crown:
- Pulled out: to set time
- Pushed in: to wind watch
Displays: Hours, minutes, sweep seconds, power-reserve indicator
Subsidiary dials:
- Days between 9 and 10 o'clock, months between 2 and 3 o'clock
Apertures:
- Moon phase at 6 o'clock
- Date at 6 o'clock
Corrector buttons:
- At 10 o'clock: day-of-week correction
- At 2 o'clock: month correction
- At 4 o'clock: date and month correction
- At 8 o'clock: moon-phase correction
Hallmark: Geneva Seal
Features
Case: 18K yellow or white gold
Screwed sapphire-crystal case back and water resistant crown
Water resistant to 25 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: 11.20 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm
Dial: Lacquered cream or Sunburst slate gray
Three Arabic numerals at 9, 12 and 3 o’clock
Applied baton-style index in 18K yellow or white gold
Railway-track minute scale featuring pearl-drop hour markers with luminescent coating (Superluminova)
Feuille (leaf-shaped) hands in 18K yellow or white gold withluminescent coating (Superluminova)
Subsidiary dials: recessed, circular guilloche pattern and frosted feuille (leaf-shaped) hands in 18K yellow or white gold
Strap: Hand-stitched brown alligator, with fold-over clasp in 18K yellow or white gold