批评但承认Lange的优点:(W. Odets)
For me, the Lange wristwatches are a conundrum of conflicting appearances and realities. While the display back reveals clear historical references to Saxon watchmaking (the three-quarter plate being the most obvious), in substance they are only very remotely related to Lange's pre-war pocket watches and look very little like them. Unfortunately, where traditional elements are used for appearance, they often impair the technical distinction and sometimes the function of the watch. The barrel click, the use of nickel-silver plates, and particularly the traditional-looking escapement would all be better off had less attention been paid to appearances and more to functional excellence. So, while this watch appears to partake of a certain tradition, the relationship is relatively superficial and not entirely in the interest of the final product.
Another area where appearances and realities diverge in these watches is on the issue of handcraft. The Lange is an extremely well-made watch and what is visible through the display back is also extremely well finished. This watch, however, is not the product of handcraft, but rather the best late-20th century, hands-off production technology. The result is a watch movement that is eerily perfect on the top plate, but lacking most of the charm, grace, and stylistic consistency of watches born of real handcraft tradition. The lack of significant handwork was, no doubt, the motivation behind chasing the balance cock. Easily visible through the display back and virtually shouting handcraft, the chasing was unfortunately prone to snagging the regulator index and making rate adjustment a bit of a nuisance in several samples I have adjusted.
In the most critical area of any mechanical watch, the escapement, the Lange is just plain undistinguished. The use of traditional-appearing poising screws makes the balance too small; the rate and beat adjustments both function only adequately (because they utilize some surprisingly badly finished parts, particularly the regulator index screw and beat adjustment plate); and in every Lange I have examined (six or eight) the regulator curb pins were so poorly conceived and adjusted that they wouldn't earn passing grades for a first-year watchmaking student. That Langes generally run well is little surprise, for low-cost, modern escapement technology (particularly in the forming of balance springs) allows even $20 ETAs to perform remarkably well.
Despite what I've said so far, I find that the Lange watches are, in many ways, beautiful and appealing. They are obviously the product of substantial skill and devotion and there are even a few ways in which they define horological excellence. What perturbs me is that all this has gone into producing this kind of watch, one that seems less a real watch than a marketing concept. It is as if Daimler Chrysler mustered all its' considerable resources to produce an immaculate, high-grade, and expensive SSK replica and equipped it with fairly good contemporary mechanicals. It would be interesting, it might be beautiful, and it would probably be a decent car. But it wouldn't, in some disturbing way, be a real car. It would appear to be something it wasn't and its' real accomplishment would be belied by its appearance. It would be a "replicar." Lange clearly has the means to make a real watch and a great watch. I wish they'd do that so I could have one.
Walt Odets